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Showing posts with label cave. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cave. Show all posts

Friday, August 19, 2022

No Particular Place to Go

(this is part two of my 2022 road trip; part one is here

Getting out and about on Friday was a struggle. 

My traveling companions

After I managed to get up, grab a bite to eat and pack up the tent, I sought out a place to fill up the gas tank and get some more ice. I found myself in a little town called Bolivar, on the Tuscarawas River. I considered going to the Fort Laurens Museum, but then for some reason decided to go to Bolivar Dam instead.
Bolivar Dam on Sandy Creek

I wandered around the path a little, and thought, "I think Pat would say this place looks fishy." I decided to look at how much a one-day out-of-state Ohio fishing license would cost, and if it was less than $20, I'd fish for a little while for the heck of it. 

It was $14. Fish on!

Looking down to the "fishy" area

Settling in, judging the best spot to cast from with minimal chance of treeing it

I started with a "ned rig" which got nothing. So I switched to a Whopper Plopper (top-water lure)

Yay! It may be little, but it was a largemouth bass on a top-water lure, so it was good.

After switching from a ned rig with a coppertreuse Z-man Finesse TRD worm to a "yoda" Whopper Plopper, I started to see interest from the small (6-8 inch) largemouth bass in the area. I finally not only enticed one to bite, but stay hooked until I could land it. 

Minutes after that, I saw feeder fish scrambling to get away from something out by the turtle basking logs in the middle of the creek. I cast in that area. 

It bit. And it fought. And I had it barely out of the water and was reaching for it when it unhooked itself and swam away. It was a chunky 16-ish (maybe larger) inch largemouth. It kept antagonizing the feeder fish while I kept trying to entice it to bite again. I tried Reaction Innovations Skinny Dipper swimbaits, went back to the Whopper Plopper, and nothing. 

More and more turtles showed up to watch the show during the two hours I was here

I'd only planned to stay maybe an hour, but that stupid fish that got away made me stay another hour trying to get it back. It was still a fun diversion, and I caught more fish than guys that showed up for 30 minutes with their catfishing gear (I caught the first fish as they were leaving and they saw me bring it in). 

From the dam, I drove south on I-77 and thought about visiting Hopewell Culture, since I hadn't been there in several years and I'd gone to Cahokia Mounds last year. Instead, when I stopped for gas outside Newark, OH, I saw a sign for the Great Circle Earthworks -- another Hopewell site -- and chose to go there instead. 
The entrance to the circle, looking directly at the Eagle Mound

Photos alone really can't do justice to this structure. The circle itself is 1200 feet in diameter, with an arrow shaped mound in the center that is called Eagle Mound. Archaeologists found the remains of a wooden structure in the mound, and think it may have been a ceremonial building that was intentionally burned and buried when the inhabitants left this site. 

Inside the circle wall is a ditch which was probably full of water when this area was inhabited. It's thought that the circle symbolized the turtle in an ocean, an Indigenous motif of the world in the universe. 
The inner ditch just inside the entrance to the circle
I was being watched while I walked around the interior of the Great Circle
 
Standing on Eagle Mound, looking towards the opening to the Circle

A nearby Hopewell site and part of the Newark Earthworks is called the Octagon. It is only somewhat open to the public because it's been leased to a country club since 1910. This actually upset me, because both the Great Circle and the Octagon were evidently sacred sites tied to the moon, and in fact may have represented the moon at perigee and apogee. Fortunately, I have since discovered that I'm not the only one disgusted and angry that an historical and sacred site (one that is part of a nomination as a UNESCO World Heritage site), and that the battle to remove the country club (has gone to the Ohio Supreme Court). Here is a NY Times article on the subject from 2021. Of course, if this truly was a lease to the country club (which, according to the article, runs through 2078), there should be provisions for ending the lease early. 


Part of the view from the viewing platform, which Moundbuilders Country Club considers "open access" to the grounds by the public.

The golfers can walk on the earthworks for a shot.
Observation Mound, from which Woodland period native peoples would have watched moonrise. This view is from the "public access" trail.

From the Octagon, I headed south through Cincinnati into Kentucky, thinking maybe I'd try Mammoth Cave in the morning. I made a reservation at a KOA in Horse Cave and set Waze to get me there. Construction on I-65 at the Horse Cave exit backed traffic up by two miles, making the trip take almost an hour longer than it should have, so I found myself putting up the tent in the dark. The Horse Cave KOA is not very tent-camper friendly, as the tent area is not flat, and is about as far away from the restrooms/showers as can be. In the dark, it was difficult to find my site, especially with no clear place to park the car. 

At least there was a little bit of firewood left in the firepit, so I started a short-lived campfire.

The next morning, I looked at Recreation.gov for cave tours at Mammoth Cave, and it looked like I wouldn't be able to get anything that I haven't done previously. I contemplated my next steps while avoiding the group of murder ducks wandering the campground, as well as a loose dog that was looking for a friend. 
Murder ducks. It's like being in Hershey all over again. 

What do you guys what to do today?

In the end, I decided to skip Mammoth Cave and go to Hidden River Cave instead. It was only about ten minutes away from the KOA, and when I got there, they waved me right into the tour. 
This is the Horse Cave, because when it was first settled, "horse" was just a term for something really big. It's now called Hidden River Cave.

The river is right at the bottom of the opening, and you follow along it a little ways before going into the other two dome rooms. This is a cave much like Mammoth in that it has domes and very few "wet" formations like stalactites, stalagmites, flows or columns. And of course, the "big sell" for Hidden River Cave is the bridge, which was more than a little nerve wracking for someone like me who doesn't like bridges. 

The hidden river

No one wanted to be the first (behind the guide) across the bridge

One of the few places of "flowstone"

Sunset Dome, the third of the three rooms on the tour

Heading back out of the cave

The American Cave Museum is part of the Hidden River Cave tour, and explains how the cave reflects an ecosystem that was nearly destroyed by the town basically using the cave as a sewer.... which then almost killed the town, since their drinking water originated from the cave. The cave had to be closed in the 1940s because of the pollution, and it was known as the most polluted cave in North America. Only after a new wastewater treatment facility was put into place nearby in 1989 did the cave ecosystem begin to recover from nearly a century of abuse. 

From Horse Cave, I meandered northward past Louisville and into Henderson, where just before crossing over the river to Evansville, IN, I saw a sign for John James Audubon State Park. I pulled in and immediately saw the Civilian Conservation Corps work. 

The Welcome Center, gift shop and museum are located here.

The museum is a paltry $6 to visit, and I would share photos, but due to copyright issues, you aren't allowed to take photos of the amazing collection of original Audubon works they have, including multiple copies of his Elephant Folio. There is also a comprehensive history of Audubon, who spent several years in Henderson, KY trying to find his way in the world. 

Of course, there were hiking trails, so I took the opportunity to stretch my legs. I saw birds, but also myriad other animals!

And fungi.... you know I saw fungi too!
A still and quiet pond

Green dragonfly, an Eastern pondhawk female

Five lined skink!

Eastern pondhawk male

Heron

Two deer

I legitimately chastised some super loud children right after I saw these deer. They were basically yelling at each other in conversation, and I just shushed them and said, "You just scared away two deer, a duck and who knows how many turtles." The kids went silent and I continued, "You probably haven't seen anything since you're so loud. If you want to see the animals, you need to be quieter." The parents just looked at me.

I walked away (they were going in the opposite direction I was), and I didn't hear them again. 

A CCC constructed shelter, marking where the overlook spur branches from the main trail

Built in the 1930s, renovated as an Eagle Scout project in 2000, and still needs protection from vandals

Turtles basking

Plainbelly watersnake, maybe

Hummingbird sculpture based on an Audubon painting

Butterfly on a coneflower

I decided to call it quits outside St. Louis, and got a tent site at a KOA I've stayed at before. The tent sites there are okay; they are flat and somewhat close to the renovated restrooms/showers, but they are also buggy. 

Campsite for the night

Buggy campsite also means spiders

A friendly lightning bug that looks just slightly different from the Maryland variety

I cooked up some "Forever Young Mac and Cheese" for dinner, and it wasn't as good as the spicy sausage pasta. Maybe it would have been better if I had some Old Bay to put in it. I still had no itinerary besides being in Salt Lake City by next Friday, so I figured I'd just drive through St. Louis, take I-70 for a while and then either find some things in Kansas or head up towards Lincoln, NE. 

But first, sleep. 

note : some links are associate links to sites where I received minimal compensation if you make a purchase through the link

Wednesday, June 3, 2015

Camping is Fun!

So, Pat likes to go fishing, and I like to go camping, and since we're both currently so sick of autocross that neither of us even renewed our SCCA memberships when they expired at the end of March, we've been doing a lot of the camping thing. And since I've deactivated my Facebook account for the foreseeable future, and some people were upset they wouldn't be able to see photos from my trips, I figured I'd resurrect my blog. :) Last weekend, we ended up at Antietam Creek Campground on the C&O Towpath. We'd just picked up a bike from my brother's house and this just seemed like a good time to go. Pat's had good success catching smallmouth bass in the creek, which aided his decision.
Pat couldn't explain the Koosh ball he found with his lures

We arrived around 2PM and were fortunate to snag site 9, which was directly across the pedestrian bridge (Antietam Creek is one of two C&O campgrounds that doesn't have parking at the site itself). After getting the tent up and everything out of the truck, Pat put air in the tires of the bike we'd picked up, and then was off to fish.
Looking downriver from our campsite
I decided to head west, towards Shepherdstown, on my own bike. I'd been as far as mile 72 while hiking on foot, so I was determined to see the lock up that way. I was determined to see some cool stuff, like I'd found the weeks before at McCoy's Ferry and Fifteen Mill Creek.

It didn't take long after passing MM72 to see something cool. 

 Then, just past the railroad bridge, I see the remains of its predecessor.
The monolith loomed large in the forest.
There were others, and it was clear that the bridge I'd just passed was the new-and-improved one. 

Just a few yards beyond the silent monoliths was what I initially thought was lock 38, though its placement confused me.
Lock?
But, upon further examination, I felt it was too close to the river to be a lock. Plus, there didn't seem to be any way the towpath could stay on the south side of the canal unless there'd been some divine intervention in the pathway of the Potomac River. I can only think now that it was a way of channeling water from the river into the canal, and so did sort of function as a lock of sorts.

The actual lock 38 was just a little ways west of this, and evidently can be seen from MD34 where it crosses into West Virginia.



I didn't quite get to MM73, so I didn't get a shot of it, but that's basically where lock 38 is found along the towpath.

Going back to the campground, I did make one small detour at Packhorse Ford. The sounds of the water rushing over the rocks and the scenery there was just too peaceful not to.
Abandoned snake skin
Rushing water
After getting back to the camp site, Pat was messing around with lures. He'd caught a catfish, but that was about it. He headed back out, heading where I'd just come from, looking for smallmouth bass or walleye (his real target). I bummed around the campsite for a little bit and gathered a bunch of twigs for use in the campstove. After putting the twigs in a plastic bad, I decided to go east, past the aqueduct. I'd been as far as mile 68 going that direction (on foot), so with the bike, I knew I could go farther. 

Most of the time, I was under the tree canopy, but as I approached MM67, a few sprinkles were getting through the leaves. We knew there was a good chance of showers on both Saturday and Sunday (the reason I'd put the campstove fuel in a plastic bag), so it wasn't a total surprise. 

And, just past MM67 was lock 37, complete with a lock master's house!
Lock 37, also called "Mountain Lock"
 

Looking down in the lock from the pedestrian bridge
The lockmaster's house seems to be in good shape from the outside
Eastern end of the lock
The sprinkling became more intense as I tried to take quick photos, so I jumped on the bike and headed back to the campground. Of course, the rain was done by the time I got back. So, I went down the little slope to the river. It was still, and the sun was reflected off the ripple-less water.

Pat came back from a fruitless trip, and we fired up the campstove for dinner. Despite the heat, he convinced me to start a campfire in the fire ring, and we sat and "chilled" by that for a few hours (and I roasted a couple of marshmallows) before settling in for the night.
About the largest the fire ever got.
The birds woke me up in the morning. Tweet, tweet, tweet..... before 6AM. Ugh. Pat got up sometime after that, and I went back to sleep. The birds woke me up again, and I went back to sleep again. The next time, I decided to get up. It was about 8:15AM -- still too early for me, but between the sun shining directly into the tent and the tweeting, there was no way I could continue to sleep. 

Pat had already gone fishing and returned -- empty-handed -- so he was ready for breakfast, too. I fired up the campstove, and we had our usual scrambled eggs and sausages.


So, I had thrown out the idea of me riding east to Harpers Ferry the previous night, and Pat was still good with it. My plan was to ride down to the Harpers Ferry area (about 10 miles) while Pat was fishing, and then he could pick me up somewhere along where the towpath and Harpers Ferry Rd. meet up. If I just rode straight there, it would take me about an hour, but we both knew I'd stop along the way to take pictures. We decided that whoever got to the Harpers Ferry area first would send a text to the other. 

We broke camp and loaded up the truck. Then I headed off, and stopped less than a half mile away to get an obligatory shot of the aqueduct. I'd done enough aqueduct hunting the previous two weeks at Fifteen Mile Creek and McCoy's Ferry that I had to. 
Antietam Creek Aqueduct
Looking upstream of Antietam Creek, from the aqueduct
I pedaled pretty much non-stop until I came up to MM67. There was a culvert there that I wanted to explore, since I hadn't the day before what with the rain. 
At MM67
I was somewhat surprised by the condition of the culvert, as all of the ones I'd seen previously were in really good shape. 

I continued down the towpath past MM66, and was going at a comfortable pace when out of the corner of my eye, I thought I saw something interesting across the canal.
Is that a cave??!
The cave mouth was half my height, and it kind of gave me the creeps, so after taking a few photos while standing in the canal, I got back on my bike and started pedaling again. But just a few moments later....
It's an even bigger cave!!
I was really ill at ease approaching this one. For one, it was tall enough that I could walk into it without bending over. There was also no human detritus around, as many such areas on the towpath would have. No beer bottles/cans, no graffiti, nothing indicating that people messed around here. It all added up to Stay Away!!! to me. So, I took a few photos while standing at the mouth of the cave, then left. 
It went back pretty far.
It wasn't too much farther down the towpath when I saw yet another structure that caught my eyes.
What do we have here?
By standing on my toes, I got the impression that the stone structure obscured by trees might be a kiln of some sort. So, I crossed the canal to get a close up view. I had no idea what the wooden structure was; it wasn't a domicile. But the stone structure was certainly a kiln, most likely an iron works of some sort. 


Oh, snap, what is looking at me???!
So, as my exploring comes to a close, and I look back at the wooden structure, I see a vulture in an opening. It leans forward, looking directly at me. Now, I've seen horror movies, and I know this is the point at which the axe murderer sneaks up from behind. The vulture spread its wings and flew away, just as I turned around in terror and then sprinted across the canal, back to my bicycle. The next half mile went by very quickly.

I stopped briefly at MM65 because I could see a "detour" ahead. A culvert had collapsed, and the towpath had been rerouted into the canal proper. I suppose this will eventually happen with the culvert at MM67, considering it's already starting to crumble. Anyway, at this point, I also see I have a text from Pat saying to let him know when I get to the turnaround on Harpers Ferry Rd. Evidently, that's a perfect place for him to pick me up and toss the bike in the back. I let him know where I was, then continued to pedal.

There wasn't much until mile 64, and literally at MM64, I started to see turtles everywhere. I saw at least three different species in that first half mile after the marker -- a painted turtle (couldn't tell if it was eastern or midland), a stinkpot and a wood turtle. Because of the vegetation and the limitations of focusing my cell phone's camera, I really wished I had my digital SLR with me at this point. 
This was right at MM64. There are two turtles and a frog.
A little past MM64, I saw this wood turtle on a log.
I finally came across a hiker-biker campground (Huckleberry Hill) after passing MM63. The distance between this hiker-biker stop and the next one (obviously past MM73, since I hadn't seen another one through lock 38), must be among the long distances on the towpath. 
Neat looking tree roots at the rivers' edge at the Huckleberry Hill campground
A short way past the hiker-biker campground, I stumbled -- almost literally -- upon lock 36. This lock has been almost entirely filled in with sediment. Strangely, the towpath trail takes a ninety-degree turn to the right as it passes this lock, heading straight for the river. 
Lock 36
A white tail deer was grazing at the eastern end of the lock
I followed the towpath to the right, and was greeted with a structure similar to one I'd seen near lock 38 the afternoon before, only this one had water in it. 


Continuing on, I notice more stone structures to my right, where the canal should be. I stopped and looked closely.
Is that lock 35?
Amidst all the vegetation and seemingly random stones, it certainly looked like an honest-to-goodness lock across the way. I started down into the canal area, but realized that there was still a lot of water at the bottom; if not water, then definitely enough mud that I didn't want to deal with it. So, I stood on tiptoe to see the apparent lock as much as possible.
Sure looks like a lock
There was a wooden pedestrian bridge, and there is definitely a sign that says "lock 35". It's the lock. I just can't figure out how someone is supposed to get to it. I'm wondering if it's accessible from the lock-like structure after lock 36. 

I pressed on, knowing that Pat might, at this point, be wondering where I am. I came across another stone structure that after subsequent review, might be part of Dam 3, then continued to lock 34, where the turnaround was located.
Possibly part of Dam 3? Just before MM62
Lock 34
Lock 34
Snapping turtle and frog in lock 34
I could have gone further than the turnaround, and maybe I should have asked to be picked up at Weverton in hindsight. But it turns out that Pat's possible fishing spots had been non-existent, and so he'd just been waiting for me to text him. :(

But with the bike, he knows he has a better range, and if he can find a way to carry his rods besides in his hands, that will make the range as far as his stamina will allow. We'll see. 

Not sure if we're going to make it four weeks in a row. Final exams start next week, and I need to make sure my grades are in line before then. There's also a greater chance of rain than there was this past weekend. We'll see.